Mt. Chomo Lonzo Expedition

Spring 2018
Entry: Lhasa Exit: Zhangmu
Fixed Departure: 06 April 2018

Height: 7,804m. (25,604 ft)
Latitude: 27°55′48″N
Longitude: 87°06′29″E
Entry: Lhasa Exit: Zhangmu
Trip Duration: 55 Days
Normal Ascent Route: Normal
Grade: Strenuous High
Caravan Route: Kathmandu - Lhasa - Kharta Valley - Chomo Lanzo Base Camp - Yuopa - Nyalam - Zhangmu - Kathmandu

Mt. Chomo Lonzo, located in the Kangshung valley and separated from Makalu by Sakietang-La, Chomo Lonzo has three different summits. The Southern, main peak (7,804m.) is joined via a 7250m. saddle to the Central peak (7,565m.), which is joined via a 7,050m. saddle to a 7200m. North (or North West) peak. In 1954 Lionel Terrary and Jean Couzy made the first ascent of the South Summit (7,790m.) from Nepal, and in 1993 a Japanese party made a second ascent from Tibet side, following a dangerous line under seracs. Neither the Chomo Central Summit (7,540m.) nor the North Summit (7,199m.) had any ascents before our expedition. The northeast face seemed challenging but risky, with much snow and threatening seracs. Cultural Treks and Expedition arrange Mt. Chomo Lonzo Expedition from the Lhasa and it takes almost 4 days arrive to Chomo Lonzo base camp after having some day’s sight seeing around Kathmandu and Lhasa.

Climbing History:
The French climbers Jean Couzy and Lionel Terray reached the main summit via the gently sloping SW ridge from the 7,200m. Sakietang La that separates Chomo Lonzo from Makalu. They did this as an afterthought during a reconnaissance expedition to the Makalu, which they first-ascended the next year. The second ascent was only in 1993 by a Japanese expedition which found a route through the NW face that joined the SW ridge half-way. A third and currently last ascent of the main peak in 1994 followed the original SW ridge route.

The Central and North peaks remained unclimbed until 2005. In 1999, an attempt to climb the central peak via its daunting NE pillar was thwarted. In April 2005, a French expedition first explored the NE face but, finding it too challenging, approached the mountain from the West and Northwest instead. One team (Yannick Graziani, Christian Trommsdorff and Patrick Wagnon) climbed the North summit over the NW ridge on May 7, while another (Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz) reached it over the West face on May 16. The first team reascended the North peak and continued to reach the central peak on May 21. The initial plan to traverse all three peaks and descend via the Sakietang La proved impossible.

Solo climbing of Chomo Lonzo (7,790m.) by Valery Babanov
April - May 2006. The first attempt of solo climbing Chomo Lonzo Main West face (7,804m., Himalaya).

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.       
Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu for Tibet visa procedure.
Day 03: Preparation for expedition officially trip briefing.
Day 04: Fly to Lhasa meet our staff and transfer to Hotel.
Day 05: Sightseeing in Lhasa, Drepung, Sera and Norbu Lingka monasteries.
Day 06: Sightseeing in Lhasa, Potala Palace, Jokhang and Barkhor market.
Day 07: Drive to Yuopa and start the trek to Kharta valley.
Day 08: Trekking in Kharta Valley.
Day 09: Kharta Valley to Chomo Lonzo Base Camp.
Day 10-11: Stay at base camp for acclimatization and preparation.
Day 12-48: Climbing period for Chomo Lonzo Main 7804m.
Day 49: Clean up Base Camp and Preparation to back to Lhasa.
Day 50: Back to Kharta Valley.
Day 51: Drive to Yuopa then drive to Nyalam. O/N at Hotel.
Day 52: Drive Nyalam–Zhangmu–Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
Day 53: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 54: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 55: Last minute, transfer to airport for your onward journey.

  1. If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of expedition.
  2. If you are alone and looking for a group to join then visit our fix-departure expedition information.

Expedition Cost in group joining basis; (Minimum 4 person required in group)
Expedition cost up to Advance Base Camp: USD 7,999 Per Person
High Altitude Sherpa: USD 3,800 (If required)

Expedition cost up to Summit: USD 18,000. Per Person

Package Includes:

  • All land transportation by Van, Land Cruiser, Jeep, Hiace or, Mini Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport & expedition pick up & drop).
  • Accommodation in Kathmandu for 6 nights at bed and breakfast basis.
  • Tibet visa fee.
  • Road permit and travel permit.
  • Expedition Permit fee of Mt. Chomo Lonzo.
  • Transportation as per program/itinerary.
  • Accommodation in Tibet on full board basis (breakfast, lunch & dinner).
  • Service of Liaison officer and interpreter.
  • Nepalese Sherpa cook and kitchen boy at BC and ABC.
  • Entry fee of Kitchen staffs.
  • Sightseeing in Lhasa.
  • Air ticket: Kathmandu – Lhasa (Gongar airport – one way).
  • Equipment allowances & daily salary of kitchen staffs, Liaison officer & interpreter.
  • Insurance of kitchen staffs, Liaison officer & interpreter.
  • Food and fuel at base camp and advance base camp.
  • Kitchen tent, dining tent, store tent, shower tent, toilet tents, chair, table at BC & ABC.
  • Single sleeping tent and mattress at BC and ABC.
  • Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels allowed for expedition till Advance Base Camp.
  • Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
  • Transfer of all expedition goods and equipment’s to BC & back.
  • 2 Expedition duffel bag or, barrel  for each member.
  • Generator or Solar panel at Advance Base Camp for light and charging.
  • Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
  • Emergency Oxygen Mask & regulator at advance base camp (for medical use).
  • Garbage deposit fee.
  • Medical Kit Box for crew’s & simple medical service for members till ABC.
  • Agency Service charge.

Package Excludes:

  • Airfare: To & from your country.
  • International airport departure tax.
  • Nepal entry & Re-entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
  • All Drinks except tea and coffee.
  • Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
  • Personal climbing gear and equipment above base camp.
  • Tents above advance base camp.
  • High altitude food and fuel above base camp.
  • Oxygen & Mask and regulator (available on request).
  • Personal local transportation in Kathmandu & Tibet except above mentioned programs.
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost luggage.
  • Applicable permit fees & customs charges, etc. for personal SAT phone, Walkie-Talkie communication equipment & commercial filming.
  • Porters and transportation in case of natural calamity.
  • Nepal custom duty charges for import of expedition goods.
  • Extra yaks if required.
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
  • Tips and bonuses for staff.


Note:

  1. We will provide you the expedition cost as per your size of group or, as per your requirement for the expedition service. We request you to e-mail us or, use "Book Expedition" form for send us your message.
  2. Above given cost does not include the climbing Sherpa’s food & fuel, tents, climbing gears and summit bonus above advance base camp.

Package Includes:

  • All land transportation by Van, Land Cruiser, Jeep, Hiace or, Mini Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport & expedition pick up & drop).
  • Accommodation in Kathmandu for 6 nights at bed and breakfast basis.
  • Tibet visa fee.
  • Expedition Permit fee of Mt. Chomo Lonzo.
  • Road permit and travel permit
  • Accommodation in Tibet on full board basis (breakfast, lunch & dinner).
  • 1 Climbing Sherpa per climbing member.
  • Service of Liaison officer and interpreter.
  • Transportation as per program/itinerary.
  • All common climbing equipments such as fixed ropes, main ropes, snow bars, ice screws, pitons etc.
  • High altitude tents.
  • High altitude food and fuel.
  • Nepalese Sherpa cook and kitchen boy at BC and ABC.
  • Entry fee of Kitchen staffs.
  • Sightseeing in Lhasa.
  • Air ticket: Kathmandu – Lhasa (Gongar airport – one way).
  • Equipment allowances & daily salary of Climbing Sherpa, kitchen staffs, Liaison officer & interpreter.
  • Insurance of Climbing Sherpa, kitchen staffs, Liaison officer & interpreter.
  • Food and fuel at base camp & advance base camp.
  • Kitchen tent, dining tent, store tent, shower tent, toilet tents, chair, table at BC & ABC.
  • Single sleeping tent and mattress at BC and ABC.
  • Transfer of all expedition goods and equipment’s to BC & back.
  • 2 Expedition duffel bag or, barrel  for each member.
  • Generator or Solar panel at Advance Base Camp for light & charging.
  • Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
  • Emergency Oxygen at advance base camp (for medical use).
  • Medical Kit Box for crew’s and simple medical service for members till ABC.
  • Garbage deposit fee.
  • Agency Service charge.

Package Excludes:

  • Airfare: To & from your country.
  • International airport departure tax.
  • Nepal entry & Re-entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
  • Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
  • Oxygen bottles, mask and regulator for expedition use (Poisk Oxygen System).
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
  • Applicable permit fees & customs charges, etc. for personal SAT phone, Walkie-Talkie communication equipment & commercial filming.
  • Porters and transportation in case of natural calamity.
  • Nepal custom duty charges for import of expedition goods.
  • Extra yaks if required.
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
  • Tips and bonuses for staff.


Summit Bonus for climbing Sherpa must pay by Climber: Per Sherpa-USD 500 for up to Summit.

Cultural Treks & Expedition offers personal equipment rentals for climber, who have limited cargo allowance with their airfare or, do not wish to purchase expensive expedition grade gear but rent it instead. Climber purchasing Base Camp Services only may choose to hire or, purchase high camp equipment. Please let us know in advance prior to your arrival so that we can meet your needs. The quoted cost are for the duration of the expedition and we provide original North Face, Marmot or, Ozark company brand tent only.

Equipment Rental or Purchase Price List:

Item Rentle Cost in USD Purchase Cost in USD
Expedition Tent USD 150.00 USD 300.00
Day Backpack (Rucksack -small) USD 50.00 USD 150.00
Day Backpack (Rucksack -Large) USD 100.00 USD 300.00
Gas Stove USD 25.00 USD 100.00
Oxygen Bottle USD 350.00 USD 500.00
Oxygen mask and Regulator USD 250.00 USD 900.00
Sleeping Bag USD 100.00 USD 400.00
Down Jacket USD 100.00 USD 300.00
High Camp Goose Down Jacket USD 200.00 USD 500.00

Climbing Sherpa Fee: Per H. A. Sherpa USD 5,200 (if required by client for advance base camp service user)