Mt. Ama Dablam 6812m. Expedition
Fixed Departure: 05 October, 2018
Himalayan Range: Khumbu Himal
Height: 6812m. - (22,349 ft)
Latitude: 27° 51′ 40″ N
Longitude: 86° 51′ 40″ E
Trip Duration: 30 Days
Normal Ascent Route: South West Ridge
First Ascent: 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge.
Easiest Route: Rock/Snow/ice climb
Grade: Strenuous High
Caravan Route: Kathmandu - Lukla - Namche Bazar - Tengboche - Pangboche - Ama Dablam Base Camp -Namche Bazar - Lukla - Kathmandu
Mt. Ama Dablam is, without a doubt, one of the most stunning mountains in the world. It is situated in the heart of Everest's Khumbu Region, directly above Tengboche Monastery on the well-worn path to Everest Base Camp. The South West Ridge is like a long Alpine Difficult, but at over 6,000m. People who trek in the region will always come away with a few mountain names added to their vocabulary, and Ama Dablam will be one of them. This trip not only takes in the sights and sounds of Kathmandu, but also the historic trading post of Namche Bazaar and the world famous monastery at Tengboche. We arrange this expedition from late autumn season, when typically there are fewer people on the mountain and the weather is cold but stable.
The expedition is not a "guided" ascent and it will be a professionally led team of competent mountaineers who have enough experience to climb one of the world's most sought after mountains without undue risk. This approach ensures that team members are suitably experienced, reasonably self-sufficient and capable and willing to move between camps unsupervised. You will still have a high level of support, including strong, confident leadership, our superb Sherpa team and a well-stocked Ama Dablam Base Camp.
Experience Required: All climbers who intend to climb Ama Dablam need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing also technically competent. On most parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills of climbing through steep rock and hard compact ice. We follow the standard South West ridge route (normal route) to the top, as it is consider the safe route, free from the objective danger such as avalanche and so on. The route we follow begins at Lukla (2850m.) and the initial days of the trekking pass through the legendary Sherpa country up the spectacular high valley of the Khumbu. Most of the route on the actual climbing is fixed with no icefall or glacier to negotiate, and most of it is concentrated on the crest of a ridge.
Base Camp to Camp 1 - To reach the first camp from base camp, The climbers have to pass the toughest and the difficult passing through the difficult saddle ridges; and then should turn to the north climbing up through the rocky ground and through the boulder.
Camp 1 to Camp 2 - From Camp I - one has to cross the rocky bowl and should climb the ridge via to the fixed lines to Camp II. From Camp II after crossing over severe rocks and ridge which lead you to a camp 2.
Camp 2 to Camp 3 - The climbing route from Camp II is mostly with the steep mixed alley ways of rock & ice and snow. The route leads to the slope climb to snow ground and then passes through steep snow and ice tunnel then finally along the snow ridge go to Camp III.
Ama Dablam Summit - From here to the summit is steep climb on snow and ice to the right of a huge hanging glacier. From the Top of Mt. Ama Dablam a very charming sceneries of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Island peak, Makalu Khumbu Himal and rest of the snowcapped surrounded mountains can be envisioned.