International Everest North Col Expedition - Zhangmu
Expedition Fixed Departure Date: 11 April 2018
Trip Duration: 60 Days
Normal Ascent Route: North East Ridge
Grade: Strenuous High
Caravan Route: Kathmandu - Zhangmu - Nyalam - Tingri - Everest Base Camp - Everest North Col Advance Base Camp
Mt. Everest expedition from Tibet side has become more popular among the mountaineers to make their dream come true to stand on the summit of Mt. Everest. Among the several reasons, low cost of royalty and other basic mountaineering services as well as the easy route to the summit are the key factors to attract more Everest climbers from North Col. than from the South Col of Nepal. There are no easy routes on Everest but we try to put the odds on our side. We take the North Ridge because we consider it to be the safest. Technically, it is more challenging than the South Side but does not have the ice fall danger. Our Advanced Base Camp (6,400m.) is right under the shadow of Changtse and has a view of virtually the whole route. From here we use four more camps, a formula that has brought us considerable success in the past.
Our trip starts from Kathmandu and drives to Kodari, Zhangmu, Nyalam and continue drive to the BC at 5,400m. and from there it is 22 km to the ABC at 6400m by yaks. We put an intermediate camp on the glacier about half way between BC and ABC, so this trip takes two days. From the ABC the route continues up the East Rongbuk glacier to the north of the glacier and then up easy snow slopes to the North Col at 7,000m.
A short information about climbing route:
Camp 01 - 7010m. established on the North Col and is probably the most important camp and offers the springboard for the remainder of the ascent.
Camp 02 - 7800m. high on the North Ridge, often a wild and windy place but one that offers superb views. The climb is a straight forward snow slope. We advise members to start using oxygen from here in order to save their strength for the task ahead.
Camp 03 - 8200m. established below the first step and the start of the technical difficulties. The ascent is over slightly steeper more broken ground. The final summit push will be made from this camp, the highest in the world.
The summit Day: The route is up mixed rock and snow steps to the NE ridge. These steps are quite steep in places and require considerable care especially as you now have all of your bulky clothing and oxygen equipment on.
North East Ridge is quite wide with small steps with little height gain until the First Step. The First Step is a short rock buttress which will be fixed with rope. Above here the climbing is more exposed but again without much height gain until the Second Step. The second step is across a series of small ledges which are sometimes snow covered, then around a large boulder and then up the ladder. Again, all of this section will be fixed with rope. Above this step there is again relatively gentle mixed ground until what is called the Third Step. Although not as serious as the previous steps, there is fixed rope to the Col before the final summit snow slopes. These are quite steep and also have fixed rope to the rock buttress from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to the summit. We have designed itinerary for make this expedition successful joining with other climber in minimum cost.