Mt. Lhotse Middle 8413m. Expedition

Spring
Fix Departure: 10 April, 2018


Location: Asia, Nepal
Himalayan Range: Mahalangur Himal
Height: 8413m. - (27,657ft)
Latitude: 27º 57’ 42” N
Longitude: 86º 56’ 00” E
Trip Duration: 45 Days
Normal Ascent Route: West Face, South Face
First Ascent: May 23, 2001 by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition.
Easiest Route: Snow/ice/glacier climb
Grade: Strenuous High
Caravan Route: Kathmandu - Lukla - Namche Bazaar - Labuche - Gorakshep - Lhotse Base Camp - Lukla - Kathmandu

Mount Lhotse Middle highest unclimbed subsidary peak in the world, close to Lhotse main, the 4th highest peak of the world, to the west and Lhotse Shar the only slightly lower east peak of Lhotse to the east. Both other peaks have already been climbed. The Lhotse group lies directly to the south of Everest. Several expeditions have tried to climb Lhotse middle, but unsuccessfully. One of the problems is the fact that there are no ridges leading directly to the summit so first Lhotse main or, Lhotse Shar have to be tackled. Mt. Lhotse Middle remained, for a long time, its first ascent was made by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition on May 23, 2001 at 03:00 pm. The Lhotse climbing standard route follows the same path as Everest's South Col route up to the Yellow Band beyond Camp 3. After the Yellow Band the routes diverge with climbers bound for Everest taking a left over the Geneva Spur up to the South Col, while Lhotse climbers take a right further up the Lhotse face. The last part to the summit leads through a narrow couloir until the Lhotse main peak is reached.

This Lhotse Middle expedition requires a high level of climbing proficiency on steep, exposed and technical skill and altitude experience is mandatory. It's an ideal climb designed for previous our Everest climbers or those who have tested climbs at 7000m +. All members will participate in a training session at base camp to make sure we are all on the same page with safety protocol and technical skills. To shorten the time spent in the ice fall in gaining acclimatization needed to ascend safely we test ourselves on higher objectives in the area. We provide a Camp 1 at but it is mainly used as stopover and emergency camp if needed. The plan will be for everyone to be prepared enough to move directly to Camp 2 (6,400m.), spend two nights and then move up to Camp 3 (7,200m.) on the Lhotse Face. We'll spend one night here before descending back to Camp 2 then the next day back to Base Camp where we will wait till the route has been established and camp provisions are in place for the summit push.

Hotel/Lodges/Camping
40 Days Trek/Climbing
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu and 39 Nights  Lodges/Camping
Best Season: Spring and Autumn

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Preparation for Expedition.
Day 03: Official work for expedition & briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: Flight to Lukla 2860m. then trek to Phakding 2622m./Monjo.
Day 05: Phakding/Monjo – Namche Bazaar 3440m.
Day 06: Rest day for acclimatization and Hiking around.
Day 07: Namche Bazaar – Tengboche 3867m.
Day 08: Tengboche – Dingboche 4343m.
Day 09: Dingboche – Labuche 4915m.
Day 10: Lobuche – Everest Base Camp 5380m.
Day 11-37: Climbing Period for Mt. Lhotse east (Middle 8413m.)
Day 38: Cleaning up Base Camp and backpack.
Day 39: Trek back to Pheriche 4343m.
Day 40: Pheriche – Tengboche 3837m.
Day 41: Tengboche – Namche Bazaar 3440m.
Day 42: Namche Bazaar – Lukla and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
Day 43: Fly back to Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
Day 44: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 45: Last minute, transfer to airport for your onward journey.

  1. If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of expedition.
  2. If you are alone and looking for a group to join then visit our fix-departure expedition information.


Note:

  • We will provide you the expedition cost as per your size of group or, as per your requirement for the expedition service. We request you to e-mail us or, use "Book Expedition" form for send us your message.
  • Above given cost does not include the climbing Sherpa’s food & fuel, tents, climbing gears and summit bonus above advance base camp.
  • Hiring a high altitude Sherpa does cost USD 3,400. This cost includes equipment allowances, daily wages, food and fuel up to base camp, insurance, flight to and from Kathmandu, sleeping tents at BC etc.

Service up to Base Camp on group joining basis: USD 6,900 per person.
Expedition Cost: Service up to summit: USD 16,999 Per Person.

Package Includes:

  • All land transportation by Car, Van, Hiace or, tourist Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up & drop).
  • 5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before & after expedition).
  • Schedule flight KTM/Lukla/KTM for member, Liaison officer & Expedition staffs.
  • Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp & back.
  • Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
  • Base Camp single sleeping tent & Mattress for each member, BC staffs & Liaison officer.
  • All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table, chairs & cooking utensils for Base Camp.
  • Food and fuel at Base Camp.
  • Service of Government Liaison officer.
  • Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
  • Equipments allowance, daily wages of cook, kitchen boys & Liaison officer.
  • Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer and porters.
  • Expedition Permit fee of Mt. Lhotse east or Middle.
  • Sagarmatha National Park entrance fee.
  • Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
  • Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
  • 2 Expedition duffel bag or Barrel for each member.
  • Generator or Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
  • Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
  • Emergency medical oxygen at Base Camp.
  • Visa extension fee.
  • Agency service charge.

Package Excludes:

  • International airfare from/to your country.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport at upon arrival).
  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
  • Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
  • Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
  • High Tents above Base Camp.
  • High altitude food and fuel above Base Camp.
  • Oxygen & Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost luggage.
  • Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, Walkie Talkies, communication
  • equipment & commercial filming.
  • International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
  • Tips and bonuses.
  • Garbage deposit.

Package Includes:

  • All land transportation by Car, Van, Hiace or, tourist Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up & drop).
  • 5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before & after expedition).
  • Schedule flight KTM/Lukla/KTM for member, Liaison officer & Expedition staffs.
  • Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back.
  • Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
  • All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table, chairs & cooking utensils for Base Camp.
  • Base Camp single sleeping tent & Mattress for each member, BC staffs & Liaison Officer.
  • Food and fuel at Base Camp.
  • Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
  • Service of Government Liaison officer.
  • Equipments allowance, wages of cook, kitchen boys & Liaison officer.
  • Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer and porters.
  • Expedition Permit fee of Mt. Lhotse.
  • Sagarmatha National Park entrance fee.
  • One high altitude Sherpa per climber to carry all food and gear to higher camps. Also assist the member
  • during climb & summit attempt.
  • Common climbing equipment such as ropes, ice screws, ice bar, pitons, etc.
  • High altitude food.
  • High altitude fuel.
  • High altitude tents.
  • Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
  • Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
  • 2 Expedition duffel bag or Barrel for each member.
  • Generator or, Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
  • Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
  • Emergency medical oxygen at Base Camp.
  • Visa extension fee.
  • Agency service charge.

Package Excludes:

  • International airfare from/to your country.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
  • Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
  • Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost luggage.
  • Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, Walkie Talkies, communication
  • equipment & commercial filming.
  • Oxygen & Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
  • Tips and bonuses.
  • Garbage deposit fee.

Cultural Treks & Expedition offers personal equipment rentals for climber, who have limited cargo allowance with their airfare or, do not wish to purchase expensive expedition grade gear but rent it instead. Climber purchasing Base Camp Services only may choose to hire or, purchase high camp equipment. Please let us know in advance prior to your arrival so that we can meet your needs. The quoted cost are for the duration of the expedition and we provide original North Face, Marmot or, Ozark company brand tent only.

Equipment Rental or Purchase Price List:

Item Rentle Cost in USD Purchase Cost in USD
Expedition Tent USD 150.00 USD 300.00
Day Backpack (Rucksack -Small) USD 50.00 USD 150.00
Day Backpack (Rucksack -Large) USD 100.00 USD 300.00
Gas Stove USD 25.00 USD 100.00
Oxygen Bottle USD 350.00 USD 500.00
Oxygen mask and Regulator USD 250.00 USD 900.00
Sleeping Bag USD 100.00 USD 400.00
Down Jacket USD 100.00 USD 300.00
High Camp Goose Down Jacket USD 200.00 USD 500.00

Climbing Sherpa Fee: Per H.A. Sherpa USD 3,400 (if required by client for advance base camp service user)