Mt. Tilicho Peak 7134m. Expedition

Spring
Fixed Departure: April 10, 2018


Location: Asia, Nepal
Himalayan Range: Annapurna Himal
Height: 7134m. - (23,406 ft)
Latitude: 28° 41′ 04″ N
Longitude: 83° 48′ 16″ E
Trip Duration: 36, 38, 40 Days
Normal Ascent Route: North West Shoulder
First Ascent: The first ascent was made in 1978 by the French climber Emanuel Schmutz using the northwest shoulder.
Easiest Route: Glacier/snow
Grade: Strenuous High
Caravan Route: Kathmandu - Besishahar - Chame - Manang Village - Tilicho Base Camp - Mesokanto Pass - Jomsom - Pokhara - Kathmandu

Mount Tilicho Peak is the highest point of the Great Barrier which links Khangsar Kang (7,458m.) and Nilgiri North (7,061m.) together, Tilicho Peak is towers at the height of 7,134m. Mountaineers rate this as a technical climb, and not so easy. There are two ways to reach up to Base Camp. Tilicho Peak expedition starts up with a drive Khudi followed by several days trekking to the Tilicho Base Camp via Manang and Khansar Village as well as another way is a short mountain flight from Pokhara brought us to the dry and dusty hill town of Jomsom as well as start from Beni Bazaar to Jomsom. From here we proceed east and north to cross the high and very difficult Mesokanto Pass at an altitude of 5300m. At the top of the pass we managed to locate some marine fossils (shells) which testify to the fact that the Himalayas was once beneath the sea. We choose the first idea as this allows enough time for acclimatization and less difficulties for taking all the logistics. The views on the routes are breath taking; anything that can surpass your imagination. What you see is Tilicho Peak and the azure and peaceful Tilicho Lake below. It is a glacial lake and unfriendly to marine life. People say they often find marine fossils (shells) that probably support the fact that the Himalayas were once beneath the sea.

We set up the base camp near the lake some of days will be rest celebrating the Puja by Buddhist priest. Tilicho stands as a daunting task above the camp which is on a moraine. From the base camp (around 4400m.) we set out for our final goal – Tilicho 7,134m. Tilicho (7,135m.) as seen from near the Base Camp.

Base Camp to Camp (i) - Climbing route is straight steep 70º/90º
Camp (i) to Camp (ii) - Climbing route is strait steep 90º with ice vertical.
Camp (ii) to Camp (iii) - Climbing route is steep to get summit 40º/60º or Max. 70º

Expedition Itinerary: A
Hotel/Lodges/Camping
30 Days Trek/Climbing
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu & Pokhara
Accommodation: 5 Nights KTM, 1 Pokhara, 28 Nights Lodge/Camping
Best Season: Spring, Autumn & Winter

Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 03: Preparation for Expedition & briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: Drive to Besisahar and continue drive to Chamje 1325m. O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 05: Chamje - Bagarchap 2164m. O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 06: Bagarchap – Chame 2713m. O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 07: Chame - Pisang 3185m. O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 08: Pisang - Manang village 3351m. O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 09: Rest day at Manang Village for acclimatization.O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 10: Manang - Khangsar (3700m. -3 hrs). O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 11: Khangsar - Tilicho Base Camp (4400m. 6-7 hrs) O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 12 - 28: Tilicho Peak (7,135m.) Climbing Period (Tented Camp)
Day 29: Clean up BC then trek to and backpack.
Day 30: Tilicho Peak BC – Mesokanto Pass (5315m.) – Nama Phu Kharka.
Day 31: Nama Phu Kharka – Jomsom.
Day 32: Jomsom – Pokhara by flight then transfer to Hotel.
Day 33: Pokhara – Kathmandu by tourist Bus then transfers to Hotel.
Day 34: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 35: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey.

Optional – Expedition Itinerary: B
Hotel Lodges/Camping
30 Days Trek/Climbing
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu and 29 Nights Lodge/Camping
Best Season: Spring, Autumn & Winter

Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel
Day 02: Preparation day for expedition
Day 03: Preparation for Expedition & briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: Drive to Besisahar and continue drive to Chamje 1325m. O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 05: Chamje - Bagarchap 2164m. O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 06: Bagarchap – Chame 2713m. O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 07: Chame - Pisang 3185m. O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 08: Pisang - Manang village 3351m. O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 09: Rest day at Manang Village for acclimatization.O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 10: Manang - Khangsar (3700m. -3 hrs). O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 11: Khangsar - Tilicho Base Camp (4400m. 6-7 hrs) O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 12 - 28: Tilicho Peak (7,135m.) Climbing Period (Tented Camp)
Day 29: Base Camp - Khangsar (3700m./6 hrs) O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 30: Khangsar – Pisang. O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 31: Pisang – Bagarchap .O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 32: Bagarchap – Syange. O/N at Teahouse Lodge
Day 33: Drive to Kathmandu by tourist Bus then transfers to Hotel.
Day 34: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 35: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey.

Optional – Expedition Itinerary: C
Hotel/Lodges/Camping
29 Days Trek/Climbing
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu & Pokhara
Accommodation: 5 Nights KTM, 1 Pokhara, 28 Nights Lodge/Camping
Best Season: Spring, Autumn & Winter

Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 03: Preparation for Expedition & briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: Drive to Beni 820m. then transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
Day 05: Beni – Tatopani 1189m.
Day 06: Tatopani – Ghasa Village 2013m.
Day 07: Ghasa –Tukuche 2591m.
Day 08: Tukuche – Jomsom 2713m.
Day 09: Jomsom – Langpoghyum Khola.
Day 10: Langpoghyum Khola – Nama Phu Kharka.
Day 11: Nama Phu Kharka – Tilicho Peak Base Camp 4400m.
Day 12- 28: Climbing Period of Tilicho Peak 7135m.
Day 29: Clean up BC then trek to and backpack.
Day 30: Tilicho Base Camp – Nama Phu Kharka 5210m..
Day 31: Nama Phu Kharka – Jomsom 2713.
Day 32: Jomsom – Pokhara by flight and transfer to Hotel.
Day 33: Drive to Kathmandu by tourist Bus then transfer to Hotel.
Day 34: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 35: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey.

  1. If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of expedition.
  2. If you are alone and looking for a group to join then visit our fix-departure expedition information.


Note:

  • We will provide you the expedition cost as per your size of group or, as per your requirement for the expedition service. We request you to e-mail us or, use "Book Expedition" form for send us your message.
  • Above given cost does not include the climbing Sherpa’s food & fuel, tents, climbing gears and summit bonus above advance base camp.
  • Hiring a high altitude Sherpa does cost USD 2200. This cost includes equipment allowances, daily wages, food and fuel up to base camp, insurance, flight to and from Kathmandu, sleeping tents at BC etc.

Service up to Base Camp on group joining basis:
USD 3,600 Per Person. Itinerary A, B
USD 3,775 Per Person. Itinerary C

Service up to summit on group joining basis:
USD 6,500 Per Person. Itinerary A, B
USD 6,999 Per Person. Itinerary C

Package Includes:

  • All land transportation by Car, Van, Hiace or, tourist Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up & drop).
  • 5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel, 1 Night at Pokhara on Bed & Breakfast plan (before & after expedition)
  • Schedule flight Jomsom – Pokhara for member, Liaison officer & Expedition staffs with airport tax.
  • Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp & back.
  • Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
  • Base Camp single sleeping tent & Mattress for each member, BC staffs & Liaison officer.
  • All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table, chairs & cooking utensils for BC.
  • Food and fuel at Base Camp.
  • Service of Government Liaison officer.
  • Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
  • Equipments allowance, daily wages of cook, kitchen boy & Liaison officer.
  • Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer & porters.
  • Expedition Permit fee of Mt. Tilicho Peak .
  • National Park Permits (ACAP entrance fee).
  • Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
  • Per Person 30 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
  • 2 Expedition duffel bag or, barrel for each member.
  • Generator or Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
  • Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
  • Emergency medical oxygen at Base Camp.
  • Visa extension fee.
  • Agency service charge.

Package Excludes:

  • International airfare from/to your country.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport at upon arrival).
  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
  • Hotel after 5 Night stay in Kathmandu.
  • Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
  • High Tents above Base Camp.
  • High altitude food and fuel above Base Camp.
  • Oxygen & Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost luggage.
  • Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, Walkie-Talkies, Communication equipment & commercial filming.
  • International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
  • Tips and bonuses.
  • Garbage deposit.

Package Includes:

  • All land transportation by Car, Van, Hiace or, tourist Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up & drop).
  • 5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before & after expedition)
  • Schedule flight Jomsom – Pokhara for member, Liaison officer & Expedition staffs with airport tax.
  • Transport of food supply & expedition equipments to Base Camp & back.
  • Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
  • All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table, chairs & cooking utensils for BC.
  • Base Camp single sleeping tent & Mattress for each member, BC staffs & Liaison officer.
  • Food and fuel at Base Camp.
  • Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
  • Service of Government Liaison officer.
  • Equipments allowance, wages of cook, kitchen boys & Liaison officer.
  • Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer & porters.
  • Peak Permit fee of Mt. Tilicho Peak.
  • National Park Permits (ACAP entrance fee).
  • Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
  • Per Person 30 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
  • One high altitude Sherpa per climber to carry all food and gear to higher camps.
  • Also assist the member during climb & summit attempt.
  • Common climbing equipment such as ropes, ice screws, ice bar, pitons, etc.
  • High altitude food.
  • High altitude fuel.
  • High altitude tents.
  • 2 Expedition duffel bag or barrel for each member.
  • Generator or, Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
  • Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
  • Emergency medical oxygen at Base Camp.
  • Visa extension fee.
  • Agency service charge.

Package Excludes:

  • International airfare from/to your country.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
  • Hotel after 5 Night stay in Kathmandu.
  • Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
  • Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, Walkie-Talkies, Communication equipment & commercial filming.
  • Oxygen & Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
  • Tips and bonuses.
  • Garbage deposit fee.

Cultural Treks & Expedition offers personal equipment rentals for climber, who have limited cargo allowance with their airfare or, do not wish to purchase expensive expedition grade gear but rent it instead. Climber purchasing Base Camp Services only may choose to hire or, purchase high camp equipment. Please let us know in advance prior to your arrival so that we can meet your needs. The quoted cost are for the duration of the expedition and we provide original North Face, Marmot or, Ozark company brand tent only.

Equipment Rental or Purchase Price List:

Item Rentle Cost in USD Purchase Cost in USD
Expedition Tent USD 150.00 USD 300.00
Day Backpack (Rucksack -Small) USD 50.00 USD 150.00
Day Backpack (Rucksack -Large) USD 100.00 USD 300.00
Gas Stove USD 25.00 USD 100.00
Oxygen Bottle USD 350.00 USD 500.00
Oxygen mask and Regulator USD 250.00 USD 900.00
Sleeping Bag USD 100.00 USD 400.00
Down Jacket USD 100.00 USD 300.00
High Camp Goose Down Jacket USD 200.00 USD 500.00

Climbing Sherpa Fee: Per H. A. Sherpa USD 1900 (if required by client for advance base camp service user)